Cycling the west coast - about 900 miles

I know you all want an update on the cycling part of my trip with gory details, and photos, so I will now do my best; sorry it is so late!
Well I can't tell you the exact number of miles I did because I was too cheap to buy a speedometer, I can't tell you how much stuff I was carrying as the scales pulled a face and didn't work when I tried to weigh everything, but I had four panniers full, and half way down the Oregon coast I mailed some things to my next destination.  I can't tell you my average speed either - but on the flat with no head wind on a good day may be about 17mphish, and up a hill on a bad day maybe 5mphish, and an average at the end of the route of maybe 11mphish.  Those of you that know me well will completely understand my lack of knowledge in the details and specifics.  In fact when asked what kind of bike I had the other day I replied "well it has brown handle bars."

The route itself down 101 and then highway 1 in California was beautiful.  As a Brit it took a while to get used to the distances involved, that there would be quite large boring stretches, or forested sections with no view, or a long way between grocery stores.  I can't actually believe that I have cycled 900 miles, because it doesn't feel like it, although when I see my legs I know it!  So much has happened that it seems impossible to tell you all, so I will try to paint some pictures of the most memorable parts of the ride.

Cycling in Washington where the roads were quiet and peaceful, and I had several early morning starts, and the world seemed to be mine alone to experience.  One morning I saw a mountain lion cub cross the road ahead of me.  The road would swoop down and run along the muddy misty and marshy coast, with beautiful colours, seabirds, and salty smells.

Getting demoralised in Oregon, the hills seemed huge, the bike heavy, the best bits of scenery were always shrouded in the morning mist, tunnels filled with cars that honked their horns, miles with limited views and being so tired in the evening that I just wanted to cry.  Even though I was really struggling I was still happier being there and cycling than doing anything else in the world, and wouldn't have stopped for anything.  I just wished the campsites were better placed for shorter days!

There is a hill called Leggett, which is enormous on the route profile maps, and I had been dreading it for days.  It was effectively a two day ride, 40 miles both days and on the first the last 15 miles or so predominantly up hill, and then the next morning Leggett hill followed by a smaller hill and then fairly easy going.  40 miles has been about my limit for much of the trip.  The first day of these two was so hot, and I was thinking uh oh most of the morning, how will I keep up with the group I am cycling with.  It was one of my best days cycling ever.  We left the highway and rode along quiet roads which weaved in and out of the highway and curved around the hillside and along the valley.  There was a beautiful rushing river in the bottom which sparkled in the sunshine and we swam and it was delicious and cooled me down for the rest of the ride.  The next day I felt much more cheerful, and Leggett Hill itself was beautiful, a nice curvy road so as not to demoralise me as I never knew how far I had to go, beautiful shady trees the scent of pine, sunshine, and it wasn't so steep.  The only disappointment was the lack of a sign at the top saying how high it was for my photograph.  The downhill was superb.  The road continued through forest and climbed another hill, then rushing down the road rejoined the coast and the cliffs and the sparkling blue sea.

Cycling around Eureka with Steve, Marco, Christoph, and Eric, looking at the old buildings (which were sparser than I had expected) and attracting stares and a lot of attention where ever we went.


Campfires in the evening with jokes and good food.  Steve was very good at finding huge logs and collecting them on his trike.  Meeting Jodie and Lillka and laughing all evening.


Riding along the tops of the cliffs with Christof in the morning when it felt as though we were on the edge of the world.  We were on a sunny hillside and next to us was an abyss filled with cloud, with the muffled sound of the ocean roaring below.  We had many miles of this and it was amazing as we were so high and remote compared with the invisible beach or the rest of the country.


The end of a ride when the road cut through country populated with picturesque wonky driftwood fences, grasslands and eucalyptus trees, meeting the coast again, and seeing deer, and then the cliffs and coast again and being lost for words with how brilliant it all was.